Brookies, Grayling, and Sideburns

Todd has been working as a wilderness ranger in the High Uintas Wilderness this summer so we decided to go up and give him some company the last few days. He has been enforcing the new camping and fire regulations and I think he decided to grow the scariest facial hair he could just to drive his point home with all of the maximum impact scout troops he talks to.

The Uintas always reminds me of my first long backpack trips and catching fish on flies and a bubble. It is where so many Utah kids get their first taste of big wilderness.

Farney Lake

A big Brookie that River caught at Rainbow Lake

Overlooking the Rock Creek drainage and Brinton Meadows with Ranger "Wolverine"

Rivers first fish, an Artic Grayling, we ended up eating it and we were quite surprised how good Grayling tastes

Lunch on Fish Creek

Tyler casting on Rainbow Lake with Mt. Agassiz in the background

Ranger Camp in Grandaddy Basin

Beauty

Sometimes the landscapes of the Colorado Plateau are so stunning that I literally have to turn away and then look back after I gather myself. Everett Ruess explained it best when he said that the Plateau county had "such utter and overpowering beauty as nearly kills a sensitive person by its piercing glory"

Yesterday I felt the piercing glory watching the sun set on Arch, Butts and Texas Canyon from Butts Point. Photo is from Butts Point looking down Arch Canyon. Comb Ridge is in the background fading into the Navajo Country.

Bears and Big Browns

Last weekend we headed north to visit family and scare the kids with a Mexican clown (see the family blog). Ty, Nate, Dad, and myself went to a new section of 6th Water to try it out. We ended up hiking quite a ways in which usually means better fishing. I think everything is better the farther you are away from a road. Tyler caught several very big browns and I accidentally deleted the photos so you will just have to believe me. Maybe Nate will post the photo of his big Rainbow he caught for verification. We ended up losing my Dad, we were pretty sure he had fallen somewhere and broken a leg. We searched for him for about three hours. He ended up being back at the truck sleeping in the shade. I'm putting a tracking device on him next time.

Yesterday I took the scouts and River up on the mountain to rebuild a barrier on the edge of the Mount Peale Roadless Area. This is the second time I have rebuilt it since I came here. It is a continuous frustration of mine that people think they literally need to drive everywhere--get out and walk. We have hundreds of miles of roads and trails open to motorized vehicles, and people still have to create new roads. I hope gas goes to $10 a gallon maybe people will walk more.

We saw three bears on the way up so the kids were worried all night that one was going to come into camp.

River in Laurel Meadows contemplating life or maybe just looking at a bug

Porcupines and Beavers

Porcupine Rim

Today we finally rerouted the Porcupine trail to avoid impacting the Golden Eagle nests on the cliff faces and the large Archaic habitation site on the rim. It has taken a long time finding a route that all the specialists were ok with. The sites on the rim are pretty amazing we found a lot of different projectile points and hundreds of other tools, several rock shelters, and a very old petroglyph panel.

Beaver Basin

Yesterday we drove up into Beaver Basin to check a trail head and trail. It is a beautiful alpine basin. Several large avalanches had come down across the road this past winter so there was a lot of downed timber. Four wheelers have pushed the road way beyond where it is supposed to be closed so we tried to block it off. The peak in the back of the photo is Manns Peak , last year I climbed it with Ty, Creed and Nate.

Thunderstorms

After work yesterday I took the boys up towards Mount Mellenthin and hiked into some meadows. Moab has been cooking all week and the mountains are always such a nice respite from the brutal heat. Thunderheads build almost everyday over the La Sals and yesterday we saw some good ones. The lighting did not look real as the sun was coming in underneath the clouds.

Mellthin is named for Rudolph Mellenthin the first Forest Ranger killed in the line of duty. He was shot by a WWI draft dodger and is buried in the Moab cemetery a block from our house.

Switching from Saddles to Full Suspension

Many of our trails in the La Sals are used primarliy as downhill mountain bike trails. Bikers get a ride to the top of the mountain and then bomb downhill all the way to town. The sport is becoming more and more like lift served skiing. Some of the bikes that people are using now days are almost too heavy to pedal uphill.

Max and myself rode the Moonlight Meadows trail on Thursday to cut logs out of the trail and see what kind of trail work was needed. The trailhead is high in the alpine near Geyser Pass above 10,000 feet. It is beautiful up there right now, fields of flowers and all the streams are running over their banks with snow melt.

I found out how unskilled I am as a downhill mountain biker by going over the handlebars twice. Once was a full out superman dive down hill. As I was hurdling head first down the mountain I was thinking to myself all of the different broken bone possibilities that could occur when gravity finally pulled me back to terra firma. Somehow I landed in soft dirt and flowers and ended up with nothing more that grass stains and a jammed finger.

Moonlight Meadows and Mount Mellenthin

Creek Crossing

South Elk Ridge/Dark Canyon

We have a new District Ranger (my boss), so I took him out the last couple of days to show him the Dark Canyon Wilderness that we manage. We spent a night at the Gooseberry Guard Station on Elk Ridge and took the ponies down into Horse Pasture Canyon and looped back up Dark Canyon. Our retired Range Manager came on the trip as well. His name is Jimmie Forrest, which I think is the greatest name ever if you are going to work for the Forest Service. He worked on the District for almost 40 years so it was great to have him along to point out features that I have walked past several times already like hidden springs, arches and ruins. I also got down in the head of Hammond Canyon. I was hoping to get to some of the larger ruins, but had to turn back when it started getting dark.

Me, Rags and Zipper, faithful government employees

Gooseberry Guard Station

Horse Pasture Trail, if you're smart you walk this section

The head of Hammond Canyon

Down in the canyon

San Rafael River

The San Rafael River finally got high enough to float last weekend so I drove up and met Dad, Tyler, and the Nielsons at the bridge across the river. We dropped off a truck and drove up to Fullers Bottom and launched the boats for a 18 mile relaxing float beneath the high walls of the "Little Grand Canyon". Last time I floated this section of river I think it was the year that Alina and I were married 14 years ago.

The convoluted landscape of the San Rafael holds so many memories for me almost every butte, mesa, and canyon reminds me of some past adventure. Climbing and sleeping on top of Mexican Mountain with my Dad, chasing wildhorses with friends and family every Thanksgiving (before I knew it was illegal), climbing Window Blind Butte in a snowstorm in February with Creed and Todd, swimming horses through the frozen river on a winter ride that turned out to be a little longer than planned, getting a first descent on Segers Hole Canyon, rappelling kayaks into the lower Black Box, and meeting Alina for the first time at Copper Globe. The San Rafael is where I fell in love with the Slickrock and my wife, it will always be home to me.

Floating beneath the Navajo Sandstone

Barrier Canyon Petroglyphs in Virgin Springs Canyon

River flowing from the Sunrise

We just got back floating the San Juan with the whole family. It rained and snowed on the drive down but the sun broke through the clouds as we put our boats in and we had great weather the whole trip, it actually never got very hot which is unheard of on the San Juan. The kids love living on the river, playing in the sand, collecting driftwood swords, and catching toads.

The San Juan is a mellow float with just a few minor rapids, but I have always loved this river. It flows through some of the wildest portions of the Colorado Plateau and is littered with signs of the ancients. I have found Navajo scarecrows in it's sidecanyons. It has intrigued me and represents one of the things I love about rivers; thier role as boundary. Humans have always used rivers as boundaries and used the imagery associated with boundary to represent death, crossing over, the other side. The San Juan is a very literal boundary between the Navajo World and the Anglo World. Even before we Anglos drew the reservation bounday along the river, the Navajo used the river as a boundary. Traditional Navajos perform specific rituals before crossing over to the north and any deer or elk killed to the north of the river have to be cleansed before they are brought back south over the river to be eaten.

On another note, after linking my last post to the Radio West website, Doug Fabrizio read my post on the show. Fortunately I had erased everything that may have offended somebody. But it just goes to show that what you put on your blog is not private and may actually end up getting read on the radio. Heres the link to the show where he quoted me. For the record I do not refer to myself as "wildbri"

Moab, the "New" West

Doug Fabrizio is in town this week broadcasting his show "Radio West" this week. Today they were discussing the town of Moab, how it has changed and if the shift from extractive industry to a tourist base economy has worked. Pretty interesting program. You can find it here.

Ed Abbey had this to say about Moab in his book Desert Solitaire "For myself I'll take Moab, Utah. I don't mean the town itself of course but the country which surrounds it-the canyonlands. The slickrock desert. The red dust and the burnt cliffs and the lonely sky-all that which lies beyond the edge of the roads."

I have to say that "all that which lies beyond the edge of the roads" is the reason I always wanted to end up here. But now that we live here, the community and the people that live here are also some of the reasons I want to stay.

Professor Creek/Mary Jane Canyon

Thirteen years ago almost to the day Alina and myself hiked up Mary Jane Canyon to a little waterfall. So today after finshing the wiring in the bathroom and hanging around for awhile to make sure that the house did not burn down due to my electrical inepdtitude I took the kids back up to Mary Jane Canyon. Last time I was there the main thing I remember was cutting down willows to use as swatters to swat the deer flies off of our calves, it was brutal. Today we only saw one deer fly and the kids loved walking up the stream bed. We did not make it to the waterfall this time but we caught a lot of frogs. See Rivers blog for frog details

The boys standing in Professor Creek below Castleton Tower

Ridge walking on water, he thought if he could run fast enough he could actually stay on top. I think he belived he did it

Horse Pasture Canyon

Horse Pasture Canyon in the Dark Canyon Wilderness. I spent today hiking down into Horse Pasture Canyon with the Trail Crew, clearing out all the trees that had fallen into the trail during the winter. Horse Pasture Canyon is a realtively small side canyon to Dark Canyon, it is full af Anasazi Ruins and is always nice and green due to the subsurface water flow in the canyon . Historically it was used as a horse pasture by the loacl cattlemen and it still serves that purpose.

and the Rivers Risin'

The Colorado is at 43,000 cfs and is quite the site to behold right now, even the rapids on the Moab Daily look big . We went up to Rocky Rapids last night to see the river in all of it's spring glory. Full cottonwood logs are floating down and lots of debris including at least one dead cow that we have seen.

The Mother River at Rocky Rapid with Fisher towers in the background

Castleton Tower, the Priest and Nuns with the snowy La Sals

Man Down

Video Creed shot on our last ski tour from Little Cottonwood to Alpine

Pinballing down the Price

Yesterday I met Ty and Creed in Green River and we dropped a car off on drove around to the metropolis of Woodside, Utah (abandonded gas station along Highway 6) and put our kayaks in the mighty Price River. We had floated this strecth about 10 years ago during high water and wanted to try it again.

The "River Runners Guide to Utah" saya that 4 feet is enough to run this section but that 5.5 is much better. The river was running 5.3 when we put on, which I would say is about the limit for floating it. The river has lots of rocky drops that you just bump and grind down at this level. Lots of manouvering around boulders. I actually had to walk three of the rapids because there was just not enough water to float me and my boat. Another foot of water would have made things a lot smoother.

This stretch of river has some great rock art along it one is a life sized bighorn several hundred feet up the canyon walls that you can see from the river.

Creed trying to figure out his next move in a boulder garden

The new rockfall rapid, I think the rocks fell in the river in 2005. We portaged